Pocket watches, once made obsolete by wristwatches, are making a surprising comeback. Men’s fashion trends tend to recycle every few decades, and it appears that after nearly a century, the pocket watch is circling back into style.
A Brief History of the Pocket Watch
The first pocket watches appeared in the 16th century. Early models were bulky, inaccurate timepieces worn on chains around the neck or clipped to clothing. By the 1700s, improvements in mechanics and craftsmanship made pocket watches a popular men’s accessory among the wealthy. Lower production costs brought pocket watches to the middle class by the Victorian era. Railroad workers and other professions also relied on pocket watches for portable, precise time telling.
The wristwatch overtook the pocket watch in popularity through the early 20th century. Soldiers in World War I found wristwatches more practical in battle. By the 1920s, inexpensive wristwatches had become commonplace. The pocket watch lingered a while longer as a symbol of old-fashioned refinement, but was largely obsolete by the 1930s.
The Return of the Pocket Watch
In recent years, the pocket watch has regained some of its former esteem. Watch aficionados appreciate the mechanical artistry involved in high-end pocket watches. The antique look appeals to men aiming for a formal, sophisticated style evoking the Victorian and Edwardian eras. Owning an elegant timepiece lends a dignified distinction.
Pocket watches also hearken back to a time perceived as less complicated. The nostalgia factor enhances their charm for some wearers. Likewise, the steady ticking of a pocket watch can be more soothing to some than the silence of a wristwatch. Hand-winding and setting a pocket watch requires ritual and care that many find satisfying.
Modern manufacturers recognize the renewed interest in pocket watches. Swiss companies like Bovet, Patek Philippe, and Vacheron Constantin produce pocket watch models retailing in the thousands of dollars. Fashion designers such as Paul Smith offer pocket watches mingling vintage looks with contemporary colors and materials. On the affordable end, brands like Tissot create vintage-inspired pocket watches that sell for under $500.
Even major wristwatch companies like Citizen and Seiko have rolled out pocket watch models in recent years. Kickstarter watch projects frequently feature pocket watches for men. The market niche persists thanks to collectors and watch enthusiasts perpetuating a pocket watch resurgence.
Choosing a Stylish Pocket Watch
Pocket watch styles run the gamut from antique reproductions to modern statement pieces. Considerations when choosing a pocket watch include:
- Metal: Silver, gold, and steel are common. Gold remains classic, while silver suits vintage looks. Stainless steel watches offer shine without the high price tag.
- Design: Engraved or filigreed cases add interest. Seasoned collectors may prefer plain, unadorned cases to display the watch mechanism.
- Chain or fob: A thin, short chain best suits a vest pocket. Longer watch chains draping across a trouser waistband exude an old-timey vibe. Leather and cord fobs also work.
- Face: Understated white faces nicely show off blue steel hands and numerals. Bolder choices include gilt, silver, or colored enamel faces. Complex watch face motifs (astronomical, automaton) attract notice.
- Complications: Consider a pocket watch with a seconds subdial, moon phase indicator, or perpetual calendar for added functionality.
- Size: Vintage-style pocket watches run 35-50mm in diameter. Bulkier modern versions are around 55mm. The smaller fit vest pockets best.
- Price: Inexpensive watches under $50 sacrifice quality and longevity. Well-made pocket watches range from $250 to several thousand. Decide how much to invest.
Styling a Pocket Watch
The key to integrating a pocket watch into a stylish look lies in the details. The proper fob, chain, and pocket pairings polish the presentation. Consider the following:
- Vest pocket: The best-suited pocket for holding a watch, though it limits wear to vested suits and sport coats. Position the watch half tucked into the lower corner of the pocket.
- Trouser pocket: If wearing with trousers, choose a side pocket cut horizontally to properly hold the watch. Angle it diagonally, not flat.
- Watch chain: Use a thinner, delicate chain for vests, or a thicker Albert style chain across the waistband. Gold, silver, and steel complement different watch metals.
- Fob: Leather, braided cord or silk ribbon are handsome fob choices. Keep an eye to coordinating with other accessories without overmatching.
- Attire: Formal business suits, sharp casual blazers, or sophisticated overcoats pair nicely with a pocket watch. Avoid wearing one with overly modern or casual outfits.
- Occasion: Bringing out a pocket watch for weddings, formal events, and black-tie galas makes a stylish statement. Too much everyday use diminishes the impact.
With some care to the coordinating details, a pocket watch can elevate a modern man’s style with a touch of throwback sophistication.
The Difference Between a Man’s Fob Watch and a Nurse’s Fob Watch
Though they may appear similar at first glance, a man’s fob watch and a nurse’s fob watch serve different purposes. Several subtle design differences distinguish them.
A fob watch was an everyday pocket watch adapted for wearing by gentlemen. The name “fob” referred to the watch’s short chain, originally meant to clip onto a vest fob pocket. Later versions extended to longer watch chains and cords. Typical features of a man’s fob watch include:
- Standard watch size, usually 40-50mm diameter. Designed to fit comfortably in a fob pocket.
- Plain rounded case made from gold, silver, or steel. Sometimes engraved with initials or designs.
- Thin metal watch chain 6-12 inches long, with a clasp or clip.
- Watch face with minute and hour hands. Additional features like a seconds dial or date indicator on high-end watches.
- Sturdy protective cover over watch crystal, often hinged.
- Winding on the back side of the watch.
- Attached to a belt loop, vest, or trouser pocket.
- Carried as a decorative timepiece or status symbol.
In contrast, a nurse watch fulfilled the specialized timekeeping needs of nurses. They required durable, easy to read watches for timing essential medical tasks. Typical features of a vintage nurse’s fob watch are:
- Smaller case, usually 30-40mm diameter to fit in an apron pocket.
- Thick metal case to withstand constant wear. Often sterling silver or chrome.
- Thin leather fob worn around the neck or clipped to a uniform.
- High contrast watch face with large numerals and bold hands.
- Sometimes glow-in-the-dark hands and or a safety pin attached.
- Less ornamentation, more utilitarian and plain. Often railroad-style watches.
- Used for precisely timing pulse rates, medications, and procedures. Sturdy and reliable.
- On some, the back cover lifted off so the watch could be pinned to a uniform.
The shared name of “fob watch” can cause confusion between the two types. But with observation of size, chain type, aesthetics, features, and intended purpose, the styles are quite distinct. Modern reproductions will also typically state if they are a “men’s fob watch” or “nurse’s fob watch” to prevent ambiguity. Knowledge of the key differences helps ensure finding the right vintage-inspired timepiece for your needs.
FAQs
What is a pocket watch?
A pocket watch is a watch designed to be carried in a pocket, as opposed to being worn on the wrist. Pocket watches were the most common type of watch from the 16th to early 20th centuries, when wristwatches became popular.
What are the parts of a pocket watch?
The main parts include the case, bezel, crystal, dial, hands, crown, movement, and chain/fob. The case houses the inner workings and protects the watch. The bezel is the metal ring that encircles and holds the crystal in place. The crystal covers the watch face. The dial is the face with hour markers and hands telling the time. The movement is the inner mechanism that keeps the watch running. A chain or fob is used to secure the watch to a vest pocket or waistband.
How do you open and close a pocket watch?
To open, hold the bottom steady and gently pry open the lid at the top using your thumbnail. Don’t snap it open quickly. To close, gently press the cover down until it clicks closed. Antique watches have hinged covers, while some modern pocket watches just press or screw closed.
How do you wind a pocket watch?
Pocket watches are hand wound, usually by turning the crown on the right side. Turn it ~25-30 times every 1-2 days to keep the mainspring wound. Turn until resistance is felt to avoid overwinding. Some antique watches are wound with a separate key.
What’s the difference between a pocket watch and a fob watch?
A fob watch is a type of pocket watch designed to be attached to a fob or chain and kept in a waistcoat or vest pocket. “Fob watch” can also refer to the European term for a pocket watch on a chain/fob in general.
Are pocket watches still made today?
Yes, many watch companies still produce modern pocket watches, often vintage-inspired designs. They are popular among watch collectors and men who want a classic, unique timepiece different from a normal wristwatch.
